Drip Irrigation vs. Sprinklers

Drip irrigation is best for beds, shrubs, trees and gardens, while sprinklers are the practical choice for lawns, so many yards use both, on separate zones. Colorado State University Extension rates drip at more than 90% efficient, versus 50–70% for sprinklers. EPA WaterSense says drip and other microirrigation use 20–50% less water than conventional sprinklers.

How each system works

Drip irrigation delivers water slowly through tubing and small emitters at the base of each plant. EPA's WaterSense microirrigation page says this puts water right in the root zone, slowly enough to limit runoff and evaporation. CSU Extension lists the basics:

• Common emitters put out ½, 1, 2 or 4 gallons per hour.
• The system runs at a low 20–30 psi.

CSU describes four main types of drip devices:

• Emitters placed at each plant. Pressure-compensating emitters give the same flow across a wide pressure range.
• Emitter tubing (drip line) with emitters built in, which waters evenly along its whole length.
• Bubblers, which put out higher flows in a circular pattern.
• Microsprays, which spray just above the ground. CSU says to put them on a separate zone from other drip parts.

Soaker hoses and laser tubing have holes but no emitters, so CSU notes their output varies along the line.

Sprinklers spray water over an area through pop-up spray heads, rotors or rotary nozzles. Landscape company BrightView says spray heads cover 5–15 feet and rotors 15–50 feet. That reach is why they suit open turf.

Some water is always lost to wind, evaporation and overspray onto pavement. CSU adds that sprinkler runoff can wear down pavement and overspray can stain and damage siding and wood fences.

Drip vs. sprinklers at a glance

Cost sources: HomeAdvisor's drip and sprinkler cost guides. Drip totals usually cover beds and gardens, while sprinkler totals cover a whole lawn, so compare per square foot or per zone, not totals. Prices vary by region.

Where drip irrigation makes sense

Drip shines anywhere plants are spaced out and you'd otherwise be watering bare mulch. Washington State University Extension notes that because only a small area gets wet, fewer weed seeds germinate, and leaves stay dry, which can reduce disease. It also works on any soil type or slope, where sprinklers tend to run off.

Good fits include:

• Shrub and perennial beds
• Vegetable gardens and raised beds
• Trees, especially newly planted ones
• Containers and narrow strips along walks or driveways
• Drought-tolerant plantings and xeriscaping

CSU gives rough weekly targets:

CSU says most systems are designed for about an hour of run time a week once plants are established. After planting, sandy soils may need watering twice a week. CSU also warns against running drip overnight just because it applies water slowly.

The downsides of drip

CSU Extension lists these drawbacks:

• Hidden leaks. Water seeping at ground level is hard to spot. A flow indicator that raises a flag when water is running can help.
• Upkeep. It needs regular inspections to keep working well.
• Too few emitters. Emitters that are poorly placed, too far apart or too few can restrict root growth.
• Trip and cut hazards. Tubing can trip kids and dogs, and it's easy to cut while doing other yard work. Mulch and wire stakes reduce the problem.

Where sprinklers still win

For most lawns, sprinklers are the practical choice, since their heads are built to cover open turf. Subsurface drip for lawns does exist, but HomeAdvisor puts it at $2–$5 per square foot, versus $0.50–$3 for above-ground residential drip.

You can make sprinklers more efficient. BrightView notes that rotary nozzles apply about 0.5–0.6 inches of water per hour, versus 1.5–2 for standard spray heads. That gives water more time to soak in on clay or slopes.

Watering at the right time matters, too. Our guide on the best time to water your lawn covers schedules and run times.

What each one costs

Drip is cheaper overall because it covers smaller areas. But WSU points out that it costs more to set up per square foot of watered area than other methods. HomeAdvisor's numbers:

• Drip system: about $350 on average, with most homeowners paying $200–$850. DIY kits start around $20.
• Above-ground residential drip: $0.50–$3 per square foot.
• Converting an existing sprinkler zone to drip: $300–$1,200 per zone.

For sprinkler prices by zone count and yard size, see how much a sprinkler system costs.

Where water is scarce, the rules can favor drip. CSU notes that many water utilities exempt drip-irrigated landscapes from watering restrictions during drought.

Some utilities also pay you to switch. Draper, Utah, for example, lists a rebate of $1 per square foot for converting spray-watered planting beds to drip. Programs and rates change, so check your own utility's conservation page before you start.

Setting up and maintaining drip

Running it alongside sprinklers

If you add drip to an existing sprinkler system, put it on its own zone, as EPA's WaterSense tech sheet advises. Drip runs for much longer at much lower flow, so sharing a valve means one or the other gets the wrong amount.

At a minimum, EPA says a drip zone needs:

• A pressure regulator to bring household pressure down to what drip parts are built for
• A filter to keep emitters from clogging (CSU suggests 150–200 mesh for municipal water)
• Flush end assemblies to clear sediment from the lines

EPA also recommends pressure-compensating drip line on slopes or where pressure varies, so every emitter puts out the same amount. CSU adds that the system needs a backflow prevention device to protect your household drinking water, and to check local requirements.

Keeping it working

Clogging is drip's biggest weakness, and WSU calls filtration the most important part of the system. CSU's routine:

• Before the first spring watering, flush the mainline, clean the filter and check emitters.
• Clean emitters during the season.
• Flush the lines after any repair.

Leaks happen at ground level, so they're easy to miss. Walk your beds while the system runs.

In cold climates, CSU recommends draining the mainline and bringing the head assembly (backflow device, filter and pressure regulator) indoors for winter.

When to call a pro

A simple drip kit for a garden bed is a reasonable DIY project. Tying drip into an in-ground system, adding zones or redesigning a whole yard is a job for an irrigation pro. EPA recommends a certified irrigation professional, since an efficient design takes expertise. Any connection to your water supply also needs proper backflow protection, which is work for a licensed pro.

Before any trenching, contact 811, the free before-you-dig service, a few business days ahead. Check your water utility's watering restrictions and your HOA's rules too, since they can affect what you install and when you can run it.

When you hire:

• Get 2–3 written quotes that list zones, parts and whether old heads are capped or removed.
• Ask for photos of similar drip or sprinkler work.
• Check licensing and insurance where your state requires it.
• Get the scope and payment schedule in writing.

You can find irrigation pros near you on LandscapeLookup, free and without signing up. Pros are ranked by Google rating weighted by review count, plus how local they are and their main service, and you contact them directly.