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How to Get Rid of Nutsedge

Nutsedge is a sedge, not a grass, so regular weed killers miss it. Pull or spray young plants in late spring to early summer before new tubers form, use a sedge herbicide like halosulfuron, fix wet spots, and expect 2 to 3 years of follow-up.

By LandscapeLookup Editors7 min read

Clumps of glossy yellow-green nutsedge growing taller than the surrounding lawn grass

To get rid of nutsedge, pull or spray it while it's young, in late spring to early summer, before it starts making new underground tubers. Use a product made for sedges, such as halosulfuron, because the crabgrass and broadleaf killers most people already own won't touch it. Then fix the wet, thin spots it loves, and plan on 2 to 3 years of follow-up, since tubers already in the soil keep sprouting.

How to tell nutsedge from grass

Nutsedge (often called nutgrass) isn't a grass at all. It's a sedge, and that matters because most grass herbicides don't work on sedges. In a lawn, it stands out because it grows faster, more upright and lighter green than the turf around it.

Video: Identifying Yellow Nutsedge (Penn State Extension, on YouTube)

Check these three things:

  • Stem: Roll the stem between your fingers. Sedge stems are solid and triangular, while grass stems are hollow and round, according to UC IPM. Nebraska Extension sums it up as "sedges have edges".
  • Leaves: They grow in sets of three from the base, not in pairs like grass, and they're thicker and stiffer.
  • Shine: Maine's pest program describes leaves with a thick midvein that feel slick or waxy.

Yellow vs. purple nutsedge

Two species cause most of the trouble. They respond differently to some herbicides, so identification matters.

Trait

Yellow nutsedge

Purple nutsedge

Leaf tip

Long and tapered

Blunt

Leaf color

Light green

Darker green

Seedhead

Yellow to light brown

Purple

Tubers

One at the tip of each rhizome

In chains

Where it grows

Most of the US

Mainly the South

Sources: Clemson HGIC and UC IPM. Nebraska Extension says yellow nutsedge is documented in 48 US states. It's more widespread than purple nutsedge because it handles cold better, and Purdue says purple nutsedge is limited to the southern Midwest in that region.

Why does nutsedge keep coming back?

The "nuts" are tubers. Each plant makes them on underground stems that reach 8 to 14 inches deep, though most sit in the top 6 inches. One yellow nutsedge plant can produce several hundred to several thousand tubers a year, and new plants can pop up as far as 10 feet away.

Those tubers are the reason nothing works in one shot:

Will nutsedge go away on its own?

The leaves do. Penn State says the foliage dies back after the first hard frost, but tubers sprout again next spring once the soil stays above 43°F for yellow nutsedge and 59°F for purple. Left alone, patches can spread to 10 feet or more across. The good news: Nebraska Extension says that with steady pulling, spraying and thickening the turf, it can eventually be eliminated.

When should you treat nutsedge?

Timing beats product choice. Clemson says new tubers start forming 4 to 6 weeks after a new shoot emerges, and Purdue calls spraying too late in the season, after plants are big and making tubers, the most common mistake.

Region or source

When it emerges

Treat by

Midwest (Purdue)

Late April or May

Late spring to early summer

Nebraska (Nebraska Extension)

Mid to late May in a typical year

Before June 21

Pennsylvania (Penn State)

Spring

Before tubers start forming in late June or early July

Because tubers sprout as the soil warms, the season starts earlier in the South, so start watching as soon as your lawn greens up. Once it's late summer or fall, you're mostly waiting for next spring.

Pulling and digging nutsedge

Hand pulling works if you start early and keep at it. UC IPM says to pull small plants before they have 5 to 6 leaves, which in summer means about every 2 to 3 weeks. Each pull forces the tuber to spend stored energy on a new shoot, and repeated pulling eventually drains it.

You may have heard that pulling nutsedge makes it worse. Pulling does leave tubers behind if you miss the nutlet, which is why the University of Arkansas says it just comes back. The fix is to pull young and often, not to stop pulling.

For a small patch:

  1. Contact 811 first. Some utility lines are buried just a few inches deep, so request marking a few business days before you dig.
  2. Dig deep and wide. Clemson says to go at least 10 inches deep and 8 to 10 inches beyond the leaves, ideally early in spring.
  3. Refill and reseed. UC IPM suggests refilling, then seeding or sodding the spot and watching it through summer.
  4. Don't till it. Tilling mature plants moves tubers around and spreads the infestation.

Herbicides that work on nutsedge

Regular crabgrass and dandelion products are ineffective against yellow nutsedge, and a standard crabgrass pre-emergent won't stop it either. That's also why a typical weed and feed product or pre-emergent isn't the answer here. You need an active ingredient labeled for sedges. Clemson rates the home-lawn options this way:

Active ingredient

Example products

Yellow / purple control

Rated safe on

Halosulfuron

SedgeHammer Plus

Good to excellent / good to excellent

Tall fescue, Bermuda, centipede, zoysia, St. Augustine

Sulfentrazone

Ortho Nutsedge Killer for Lawns

Fair / poor to fair

Same five grasses

Imazaquin

Image Nutsedge Killer

Fair / good

Bermuda, centipede, zoysia, St. Augustine (not tall fescue)

Bentazon

Basagran products

Good / poor

Same five grasses

Source: Clemson HGIC, which also lists other brands for each ingredient. For northern lawns, Penn State lists halosulfuron and sulfentrazone products among those labeled for cool-season turf. Glyphosate (Roundup) kills grass too, so keep it to spot use in beds, and UC IPM says even there it gives only limited suppression.

Does SedgeHammer kill grass?

Not when you use it as labeled on a listed grass. Purdue says halosulfuron gives excellent yellow nutsedge control with very good tolerance across turf species. It needs a surfactant unless you buy SedgeHammer+, which has it premixed.

Does Image kill nutsedge?

Yes, on southern grasses. Clemson rates imazaquin better on purple than yellow nutsedge, and says you must water in 1/2 inch afterward and can't seed the area for 6 weeks. Don't use it on tall fescue.

How long does nutsedge killer take to work?

It depends on the ingredient. In Penn State trials, sulfentrazone showed injury in 2 days and plants were gone in 10, while SedgeHammer took about a week to show symptoms and three more to finish. Image's maker says to expect discoloration in 1 to 2 weeks and dead weeds in 3 to 5. Plan on a repeat: Clemson says halosulfuron may need a second spray 6 to 10 weeks later.

How to spray for best results

Fix the conditions nutsedge loves

Spraying without fixing the cause means fighting it every summer. Nutsedge often signals poor drainage, watering too often or leaky sprinklers.

In beds, plastic sheeting fails because the leaf tips poke through it. UC IPM says thick nonwoven fabric under mulch can suppress it, while Nebraska Extension says even landscape fabric doesn't. Our guide to landscape fabric covers the tradeoffs. Tall, dense shrubs that shade the soil help more, since nutsedge doesn't grow well in shade.

When to call a pro

Hire a lawn care company if nutsedge covers large areas, keeps coming back after a season of treatment, or you're not sure which species or grass you have. UC IPM notes that many sedge herbicides are available only to licensed professionals. LawnStarter puts weed control at about $50 to $210 per treatment, and post-emergent herbicide at $75 to $170 (2026). Prices vary by region and lawn size. See lawn care cost for other services.

Before you hire:

  • Get 2 or 3 written quotes that name the product, number of visits and whether repeat sprays are included.
  • Ask for photos or references from lawns with the same problem.
  • Check licensing and insurance where your state requires it, including a pesticide applicator license.
  • Get the scope and payment schedule in writing.

You can find lawn care pros near you on LandscapeLookup for free, with no sign-up. Pros are ranked by Google rating weighted by review count, plus how local they are and their main service, and you contact them directly.

LandscapeLookup Editors

Editorial team

The LandscapeLookup editorial team writes guides to help US homeowners plan yard projects and hire the right pro. Each guide is based on university extension services, government sources such as EPA WaterSense and USDA, manufacturer instructions and published cost guides, and links to them so you can check the details.

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